Jacquemus staged his latest show, “LA CROISIÈRE,” in the heart of Paris, returning to the fashion week circuit with a quieter sort of spectacle. This time, only 40 guests were invited into a wood-paneled apartment designed by Auguste Perret, a pivotal figure in the Art Deco movement. The setting felt like a departure from the typical Jacquemus extravaganza, yet it underscored the brand’s flirtation with modernity and heritage all at once.
“I wanted a very intimate, almost like a salon moment. I watched a lot of old couture [shows] with salons, and I also wanted to be honest with you, like being in front of you with just my silhouettes, no artifice,” Simon Porte Jacquemus said after the show. “Because Jacquemus shows are always [in] beautiful locations, insane, and sometimes I felt like the collection could disappear.”
Inspired by French couturiers crossing the Atlantic in the ’50s, he imagined how his own label might have introduced itself to a post-war American audience. Mid-century shapes turned into crisp, wearable pieces—sharp jackets carved out an Ovalo-like line, dropped waists moved elegantly into frothy skirts, and knits followed a contoured silhouette without veering into costume territory. Menswear touched on that American dream with clean denim, sporty collared shirts, and the occasional windbreaker cut in delicate leather.
“I couldn’t show this collection anywhere else, and also it was something that I missed in a way,” he continued, describing this shift to a more personal setting as “a new chapter for the brand.” The palette ranged from ecru and black to jolts of red, orange, and a soft banana shade—an emerging signature for Jacquemus. Accessories echoed the nostalgic spirit: slip-on tennis shoes in tulle, woven kitten heels, roomy totes in bright leather, plus whimsical touches like leather goods shaped to hold surprising items.
Another landmark of the day was the brand’s decision to film every moment with the new iPhone 16 Pro Max. Leveraging 4K120 fps Dolby Vision recording, the team captured slow-motion runway shots and close-ups via the 5x Telephoto lens, blending digital sleekness with mid-century elegance. A specially designed installation allowed guests to interact with iPhone’s camera setup, hinting at the future of live fashion coverage.
And then there was the Jacquemus + Nike collaboration, teased on the runway with a fresh spin on the legendary Waffle-sole trainer. This drop follows a series of successful capsules between the two labels, combining playful French sensibility with the sports brand’s iconic design. Fifteen-plus years into its story, Jacquemus is still positioning itself as both an homage to storied French houses and a force pushing new ideas forward. “LA CROISIÈRE” felt like the best of both worlds: a narrative anchored in the past, yet reaching for what’s next.
