Dior’s Fall 2025 show at Paris’s Jardin des Tuileries opened a new chapter titled “Once Upon a Time,” giving the house’s heritage a modern pulse. Maria Grazia Chiuri revisited the work of Gianfranco Ferré with nods to his architectural flair, weaving those references into a lineup that toyed with past eras and present-day style. The first piece—a lone white dress drifting from a suspended chair—set a contemplative mood, blurring boundaries between costume drama and contemporary cool.
Shirting took on new life with detachable ruffled collars, a playful echo of Renaissance shapes that fluidly shifted with each model’s movement. Throwbacks continued with the reappearance of the “J’adore Dior” tee from John Galliano’s tenure, layered under structured jackets and paired with ribbon-traced skirts. Lace details brushed up against utilitarian outerwear, while shadowy coats contrasted with translucent shirts and bustiers, proving that masculinity and femininity can speak the same language.
As the show transitioned from midnight tones to lighter hues, Chiuri evoked theatrical staging reminiscent of Robert Wilson’s dreamlike sets, where swirling birds and abstract shapes hovered overhead. Velvety ribbons, baroque pearls, and precise tailoring created an interplay of textures that felt both grounded and fanciful. A renewed interest in masculine suiting—complete with curved shoulders—balanced sharper silhouettes, hinting at the house’s willingness to reshape tradition. Raincoats with subtle glossy finishes caught the eye, reflecting a daily practicality woven into the grandeur.
Dior’s continuing global presence resonates beyond the runway, too. The brand recently underscored its pop-cultural reach by strengthening relationships with ambassadors like Jisoo of Blackpink, bridging youth culture with couture refinement. This collection—mixing Ferré’s legacy, Galliano’s classic motifs, and Chiuri’s vision—tells the story of a house that isn’t afraid to reconstruct its own history to build tomorrow’s wardrobe.
