Acne Studios is zeroing in on its next chapter as it heads toward its 30th anniversary in 2026. For Fall 2025, creative director Jonny Johansson experiments with a clash of environments, blending gritty, futuristic city references with the earthy calm of the Nordic outdoors. “A Nordic upbringing develops a deep connection to nature. Nature and urban cities have always had a relation that fascinates me. It is the tension and contrast between the two of them that I have tried to portray within this collection,” he says, capturing that push-and-pull throughout the runway looks.
Set against a towering skyline that felt like a modern mirage, the show also featured woven installations by Swedish design duo Front, echoing raw natural forms. “I found Front through a friend of mine and their beautiful pieces were the perfect contrast to our fake city inspired skyline to continue with the illusion of their co-existence,” Johansson adds. The result is a conversation between polished metropolitan motifs and the kind of organic shapes you might find in a Scandinavian forest.
Silhouettes carry a softer shoulder line, with rounded sleeves that hint at past notions of power dressing—imagine an ’80s business jacket, but reworked with a gentler approach. Elsewhere, draped fabrics and slinky bodysuits tap into a ’70s groove. Hemlines are noticeably shorter, and leg-defining slits pair with second-skin stockings. Scarves once used as neckwear have been reinvented as tops and dresses, playfully twisting tradition.
Materials underscore the recurring theme of contradiction. There’s a deliberate mix of leather treatments—some smooth and bonded, others creased and warped by hand-washing. Faux fur and flocked denim appear side by side, evoking the feel of a well-worn plush toy. At the same time, certain pieces are featherlight and gauzy, cut on the bias to follow the body’s shape. Denim remains a key element, with freeze-frame creases and vinyl bonding that give it a time-capsule effect.
The palette is equally unexpected. Toasty browns, honey tones, and nubby beiges meet saturated burgundy, plum, and flashes of gold. Black lines appear here and there, heightening the contrast. Prints push into illusion territory: there are polka dots that double as teddy bear outlines and classic checks that seem to shift when viewed from different angles.
Footwear plays with subversion. A plush boot, reminiscent of a stuffed animal, stands next to a sliced pump that reveals toes. Traditional menswear loafers get reshaped into chunky boots or elevated heels. Finishes range from faux ostrich to lizard, with a wink at classic luxury. Bags follow a similar line of thought, introducing a supersized Camero Hotel shape in suede, along with smaller versions like the Camero Camera and Camero Party. The new Multipocket bucket is added to the label’s roster, and the Bowlina arrives in fresh treatments like faux ostrich and shearling.
Accessories have an office-meets-luxe twist, featuring pendants modeled after pens and mini notebooks in metallic finishes. It’s a playful nod to the everyday object turned runway statement. Overall, the collection reads like a conversation between two environments that, at first glance, don’t seem to match—yet here, they manage to meet in a space that feels simultaneously pragmatic and out of this world.
