DSM brings on Kei Ninomiya for its first in-house line, a drop of off-duty essentials set to land in Paris this June, signaling a fresh chapter for the retailer.
Dover Street Market, founded by Rei Kawakubo and Adrian Joffe, is launching its own label. Simply called DSM, the line will debut during Paris Men’s Fashion Week with Kei Ninomiya of Noir behind the design. Unlike the short-term guest designer format that’s become standard, Ninomiya isn’t just stepping in. He’s setting the tone. He’ll lead the first phase of DSM’s development, with plans for other designers to follow in future seasons.
The move marks a shift for both parties. For DSM, it’s a way to expand its point of view beyond curation. For Ninomiya, it’s a chance to move beyond the sculptural, technical pieces he’s known for at Noir. The DSM collection focuses on easy-to-wear staples: jersey, everyday silhouettes, and uniforms of sorts. “Unnamed team wear,” as he calls it, designed for the broader community that surrounds the stores.
Pricing will fall well below the luxury bracket. That accessibility is intentional. “We’d like to make this first one popular and affordable,” said Adrian Joffe, who runs DSM with Rei Kawakubo. He adds that future DSM projects could shift entirely in look and feel. There are no rules around category, concept, or who designs next.
The DSM label will be shown from June 28 to July 1 at the Dover Street Market Paris showroom on Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, alongside Spring 2026 collections from ERL, Phileo, Rassvet, and Westfall. Deliveries are expected to begin early next year.
