Kim Jones took Dior on a transformative path this season, unveiling his Winter 2025 menswear in a stark black tent. The house’s show notes stated “An encounter of extravagance and simplicity, of yesterday and today, of elegance and practicality, the Dior Winter 2025-2026 collection dreamed up by Kim Jones is infused with notions of metamorphosis and evolution.”
That sense of evolution was clear in the silhouettes — from reworked ‘opera’ coats to lean, monastic lines that echoed Christian Dior’s Ligne H from 1954. One opening look—a stark black coat worn almost like a long skirt—set a pared-down tone, but it was never truly minimal: you notice the folded neckline on a leather sweatshirt, or glass beads glinting on navy shoulders.
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A black satin blouse with balloon sleeves was cut open in the back, while bonded leather lent a sculptural feel to cropped bomber jackets. Subtle drama came from a raised drawstring collar and buckled sleeves on a utilitarian piece that toed the line between uniform and statement. Throughout, volume shifted — fitted shapes gave way to gentle flares, especially in those draped ‘opera’ coats that shimmered in a chiaroscuro play of sheen and shadow. Bags were softly constructed, then contrasted by practical accessories; dress shoes and boots were scaled up in weathered leather and finished with satin bows.
After the show, Jones received the Legion of Honor—France’s highest civilian award—recognizing his contributions to fashion. It’s been a busy run for Dior too, following the brand’s 2021 partnership with Paris Saint-Germain, a move that cemented its link to the sports world. With this winter collection, Jones is showing that Dior can honor its past while inviting a new wave of menswear fans to step onto its white stairway and look ahead.
