In a bare Deposito at Fondazione Prada, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons swapped hard-edged tailoring for abbreviated shorts, flowerpot hats and color clashes.

At Milan Fashion Week, Prada presented its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection, “A Change of Tone,” inside the Deposito of Fondazione Prada. The designers, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, left the vast concrete hall almost untouched: sunlight streamed through high windows, birdsong and cowbells replaced the usual bass, and shaggy flower-shaped carpets dotted the floor.
The stripped-back setting announced the new mood. Prada and Simons traded recent seasons’ assertive suiting for pieces that ask when, and where, men get dressed. The opening look paired a crisp white camp shirt with bloomers cut high on the waist, recalling Rineke Dijkstra’s 1993 portrait of a teenage swimmer in Odesa. From that moment on, trousers were optional: roughly a third of the show relied on sharply cut shorts that hovered daringly above mid-thigh.




Familiar house signatures appeared in unexpected pairings. Feather-light macs swung over retro track tops; leather car coats met flood pants; shrunken wool sweaters skimmed tunic-length army shirts. New boat-neck knits and smocks added to a silhouette that was slender, slightly gawky and deliberately at odds with the bulk seen elsewhere in Milan.
Accessories underlined the off-beat logic. Raffia hats shaped like inverted flowerpots sat above black dress socks and two-tone boat shoes, while low leather moccasins kept feet close to the ground. The garments pointed to city streets, the beach and the gym at once, refusing any single destination.




Color delivered much of the tension. Navy, grey and black formed the core, yet flashes of cobalt, red, grass green, yellow and violet sliced through the palette. Softer notes, butter yellow, blush pink, mint—brought another layer. Khaki met lavender, red met sky blue, celadon met pink, proving that a jolt of color can reset even the most corporate outline.




Prada and Simons described their exercise as dismantling the authority of uniforms by placing opposites side by side. Sportswear slid into formality, while beachwear walked straight into the office. Volumes stayed close to the body, and the clothes’ overall lightness felt like a rebuttal to fashion’s current excess.
“A Change of Tone” lived up to its name. By paring back the venue and loosening the silhouette, Prada found clarity without abandoning the label’s trademark nerdy edge.