In a move that’s echoing through the corridors of high fashion, Pierpaolo Piccioli is making his graceful exit from Valentino after an illustrious nearly eight-year tenure as the brand’s creative mastermind. Since stepping into the role of sole creative director in 2016, following Maria Grazia Chiuri‘s departure for Dior, Piccioli has been the beacon of innovation and inclusivity at the Roman couture house.
Piccioli, a visionary who first joined the Valentino ranks in 1999 to helm accessories, quickly became a pivotal figure in the brand’s evolution. He, along with Chiuri, was personally chosen by Valentino Garavani to guide the brand into the future following Garavani’s retirement. This dynamic duo initially made their mark at Fendi, where they collaborated for a decade before being summoned to revitalize Valentino’s accessory line—a challenge they met with exceptional creativity and finesse.
Under Piccioli’s creative direction, Valentino flourished, embracing a philosophy that celebrated diversity and modernity while remaining deeply respectful of its couture roots. Piccioli’s Valentino was about breaking barriers, whether by amplifying the brand’s couture essence with a youthful vibrancy or by championing inclusivity through unexpected ambassadorships, such as Formula 1 champion Lewis Hamilton and BTS’s Suga, and casting choices like Adut Akech and Anwar Hadid.
Piccioli’s design ethos introduced a fresh narrative to Valentino, characterized by bold volumes, a new palette (including the PP Pink Pantone shade), and an innovative take on daywear that flirted with streetwear elements. His meticulous attention to detail was nowhere more evident than in his reimagining of the white shirt for the Spring 2019 collection, signaling a new direction for the brand.
Yet, as Valentino prepares to turn a new page, the fashion world is buzzing with speculation about who will fill Piccioli’s formidable shoes. Industry whispers hint at potential successors, including Alessandro Michele and even Chiuri herself, despite the complex dynamics introduced by recent business maneuvers.
In 2022, Valentino’s narrative took an intriguing twist with Kering acquiring a 30% stake in the brand for €1.7 billion, underlining a strategic partnership with Mayhoola, the Qatari fund that owns Valentino. This deal not only pegged Valentino’s value north of €5 billion but also hinted at future collaborations and investments that could redefine luxury fashion’s boundaries.
Valentino’s latest performance indicators highlight a brand in the ascendant, with sales surging to €1.42 billion in 2022, a testament to the strategic realignment of its retail and wholesale operations. This growth narrative underscores a brand that’s continuously evolving, mirroring the fashion industry’s dynamic landscape.
As Valentino and Mayhoola navigate these changes, including leadership shifts like Balmain’s CEO Jean-Jacques Guével stepping down, the fashion community watches closely. The anticipation of a new creative chapter for Valentino, coupled with the legacy of Pierpaolo Piccioli’s tenure, sets the stage for an exciting evolution of this iconic maison.
In his parting words, Piccioli reflected on his quarter-century journey with Valentino, a period marked by shared creativity and innovation. “Not all stories have a beginning or an end, some live a kind of eternal present that shines so bright that it won’t produce any shadows,” he mused, capturing the enduring spirit of his tenure and the timeless allure of Valentino.
