By Sirena Kuo
Sabato De Sarno didn’t just inherit the keys to Gucci—he inherited its legacy and all the expectations that come with it. In just over a year, he’s begun to answer a defining question: How does an iconic house stay relevant without losing its soul?
When Sabato De Sarno took the reins at Gucci, the anticipation was electric. His debut collection, Ancora, at Milan Fashion Week in September 2023, marked a bold shift for Gucci. Stripped of excessive theatrics, the show introduced a focused, pared-back aesthetic that highlighted the brand’s roots while ushering in a new modernity. The response was immediate: critics praised the collection’s clarity and its ability to reinterpret heritage for a contemporary audience. From tailored silhouettes to the reimagining of archival pieces, Ancora was more than a debut—it was a statement of intent.
Born in Naples, De Sarno’s rise to one of the industry’s most influential roles reflects years of quiet determination and expert craft. He started his fashion career at Prada in 2005 before moving to Dolce & Gabbana and later Valentino, where he played a key role in shaping the men’s and women’s collections. These early experiences laid the groundwork for his ascent at Valentino, where he became Fashion Director for men’s and women’s ready-to-wear. They cultivated a designer adept at seamlessly blending sophistication with ease—qualities that have become hallmarks of Gucci’s evolving narrative.
“I’m the opposite of conceptual,” he said in an interview, emphasizing his focus on creating fashion grounded in wearability and real-life relevance. That sentiment resonates throughout his designs, where sharp tailoring meets athletic elements and sleek, understated palettes are punctuated by rosso ancora, a deep burgundy quickly becoming a signature of his Gucci. It’s a vision that’s confident without being contrived, relatable yet undeniably aspirational.
De Sarno’s Gucci doesn’t discard its past but refines it for the present. Take the revival of the 1970s Blondie bag—reimagined with a modern sensibility while retaining its iconic charm. Another highlight of his tenure is the Gucci Notte evening wear collection, introduced at the LACMA Art+Film Gala in Los Angeles, which blends old Hollywood glamour with contemporary elegance. These thoughtful updates aren’t just a nod to heritage; they’re proof that tradition can still feel fresh and relevant.
Off the runway, Gucci’s campaigns under De Sarno’s direction are finding a dynamic rhythm, reflecting his personal love for art and a commitment to storytelling. Drawing inspiration from contemporary artists like Jannis Kounellis, these campaigns weave artistic influences into Gucci’s evolving aesthetic, creating a bridge between heritage and modernity. The Gucci Gift series, featuring a curated mix of A-list celebrities and precision craftsmanship, reflects his understanding that luxury today is about connection as much as exclusivity.
Additionally, the “We Will Always Have London” campaign, captured by the iconic Nan Goldin, celebrated the city’s vibrant spirit through evocative visuals. This campaign garnered significant recognition, earning Gucci an honor at the British Fashion Awards, further solidifying the house’s influence in both fashion and culture. It’s about creating moments that feel personal.
Sabato De Sarno’s approach is rooted in evolution—thoughtful, deliberate, and deeply connected to the brand’s identity. By distilling Gucci’s essence and infusing it with a modern sensibility, he’s crafting a narrative that feels both timeless and personal. In an industry that often prioritizes speed, De Sarno reminds us that fashion’s most enduring stories are those that balance heritage with humanity, aspiration with authenticity, and, ultimately, the brand with the people who wear it.
