By Sirena Kuo
Peter Do, a name that has become synonymous with modern luxury and precise tailoring, is quietly revolutionizing the fashion landscape in New York. Born in Biên Hòa, Vietnam, and later immigrating to Philadelphia at the age of 14, Do’s journey is as remarkable as his designs. His early days were marked by an intense curiosity about clothing—a curiosity that led him to experiment with a $20 sewing machine his mother bought at Kmart. These humble beginnings laid the foundation for what would become one of the most talked-about fashion labels today.
I remember vividly when I first encountered the name Peter Do during my time at FIT. In a journalism class, we were tasked with interviewing people in the fashion industry, and Peter Do’s brand had been founded less than a year before at the time, yet it was already capturing the attention of industry insiders and enthusiasts alike. I had the opportunity to interview one of the brand’s co-founders, Jessica Wu. She shared how the label emerged from a close-knit group of friends who were united by a vision to create something new in fashion—a vision that has since grown into a brand celebrated for its meticulous tailoring and innovative approach. Even before establishing his own label, Peter Do had already achieved significant recognition, including winning the prestigious LVMH Prize in 2014 and being recognized as an emerging designer of the year. Now, years later, I find myself writing this article, reflecting on how Peter Do’s brand has flourished and how he has taken on the role of Creative Director at Helmut Lang—a testament to his evolution and enduring influence in the fashion world.
Do’s design philosophy was shaped by his experiences working under Phoebe Philo at Celine and later with Derek Lam. “Phoebe taught me a lot about the nuances of design and the importance of experimentation,” Do once shared. His time with Derek Lam broadened his understanding of running a brand. “Derek taught me a holistic approach to running a brand, as you have to be involved in all facets of the company when it’s your own.” These experiences greatly influenced his approach to building Peter Do, where precise craftsmanship meets thoughtful brand management. His pieces, often featuring elements like detachable sleeves or convertible hems, reflect his commitment to both functionality and elegance. Unlike the logo-driven trends dominating much of the fashion industry, Peter Do’s work is a nod to the understated sophistication typically associated with Parisian houses—a rare approach in contemporary New York fashion.
Building the Peter Do brand came with its challenges. Early on, the brand faced financial strains typical of young labels, particularly due to inconsistent payments from stockists. However, Do and his team navigated these difficulties, emerging stronger and more focused. This perseverance led to a refined vision for the brand, exemplified by a pivotal Fall/Winter 2022 collection featuring just 36 looks—a deliberate move toward a more concise and impactful presentation.
The designer’s humility and focus on everyday impact are evident in his approach to high-profile events. When asked about dressing someone for the Met Gala, Do reflected on the experience as a significant moment for his brand and team. However, he candidly admitted that walking the red carpet wasn’t a personal milestone for him. “Someone on the street wearing PD is my personal accomplishment. Being a part of someone else’s everyday life is my goal,” he shared, emphasizing that his true achievement lies in creating garments that people choose to wear in their daily lives, not just on special occasions.
Last year, Peter Do took on a new role as Creative Director at the legendary fashion house Helmut Lang. His debut collection was well-received, merging the brand’s conceptual heritage with his own modern design approach. Now, attention turns to how he will continue to balance the demands of leading his label while revitalizing Helmut Lang. With a clear focus on both innovation and tradition, Peter Do is set to guide Helmut Lang into its next chapter.
In a world where fashion is increasingly driven by instant gratification and social media trends, Peter Do’s commitment to timeless design and quality craftsmanship stands out. His work isn’t just about creating clothes; it’s about creating a dialogue between the garment and the wearer, offering pieces that are as versatile as they are beautiful. As New York continues to evolve as a fashion capital, Peter Do remains one of its brightest hopes, bringing a level of sophistication and thoughtfulness that is rare in today’s industry.
