Weekly Spotlight: Copping Joins Lanvin, Dries Van Noten Farewell, and Chanel’s Couture Show, and More

By Sirena Kuo

1. Peter Copping Joins Lanvin as New Artistic Director

Peter Copping has been appointed as the new artistic director of Lanvin, France’s oldest couture house, concluding a year-long search amidst instability at its Chinese parent company. Starting in September 2024, Copping will oversee both womenswear and menswear. His extensive experience includes revitalizing Balenciaga’s couture line since 2021 and creating iconic red carpet looks for celebrities like Kim Kardashian and Michelle Yeoh. Copping’s impressive career spans roles at Louis Vuitton, Nina Ricci, and as the successor to Oscar de la Renta. Lanvin aims to reconnect with its post-WWII Parisian glory under Copping’s creative vision, following a tumultuous period marked by multiple changes in leadership and creative direction. This appointment is seen as a pivotal moment for Lanvin’s renaissance, with Siddhartha Shukla, the brand’s CEO, expressing confidence in Copping’s ability to navigate a new frontier in fashion. Despite this change, Lanvin will miss Paris Fashion Week in September, and details on the brand’s future unveiling plans remain undisclosed.

2. Dries Van Noten Says Farewell After 38 Years and 150 Collections

After a groundbreaking 38-year career, Belgian designer Dries Van Noten has taken his final bow in the fashion world, concluding his journey with a poignant menswear show. Renowned for redefining fashion with intelligent, conceptual spectacles, Van Noten’s last show mirrored his first in 1992, marking a full circle. Throughout his career, he influenced not only how people dress but also how they experience fashion, infusing his collections with a unique blend of high and low contrasts, luxurious fabrics, and innovative techniques. Despite his departure, Van Noten is confident in the future of his brand, now in the hands of Spanish company Puig, emphasizing that new interpretations of his aesthetic principles—color, prints, and craftsmanship—will continue to evolve. Reflecting on his legacy, Van Noten acknowledges the emotional weight of his departure but remains hopeful, focusing on his future endeavors and the next chapter of his life. His farewell show, filled with familiar faces and resonant memories, encapsulated the essence of his work—timeless, evocative, and continuously evolving, leaving an indelible mark on the fashion industry.

3. Chanel Hosts Haute Couture Show Only Three Weeks After Viard’s Exit

Chanel held its haute couture show at the Opera Garnier just three weeks after the sudden departure of its creative director, Virginie Viard, who had been with the brand for nearly 30 years. Viard, who succeeded Karl Lagerfeld in 2019, oversaw record sales but faced criticism for her designs, leading to her abrupt exit in early June. Despite her absence, the show featured a sophisticated and theatrical collection created by the 150 artisans of Chanel’s Rue Cambon workshop. Highlights included medieval capes, evening dresses with puffed sleeves, matador outfits, and a velvet tuxedo, all showcasing the brand’s classic tweeds and touches of Lagerfeld-inspired vinyl. Viard’s departure followed a poorly received mid-season show in Marseille, compounded by cold weather. The fashion world now speculates on her successor, with names like Hedi Slimane, Marine Serre, Simon Porte Jacquemus, Pierpaolo Piccioli, and Sarah Burton in the mix. Despite the upheaval, Chanel’s latest show demonstrated the brand’s resilience and continued commitment to haute couture excellence.

4. Revolve to Acquire French Luxury Brand Alexandre Vauthier

Revolve, the California-based online fashion retailer, is set to acquire French haute couture brand Alexandre Vauthier, which entered administration earlier this year. Vauthier, known for its luxury craftsmanship and private client haute couture, struggled with financial issues due to late payments, a collapsed Russian market, and broader challenges facing independent luxury brands. The acquisition might seem surprising given Revolve’s millennial-focused, fast fashion approach, but it offers significant benefits. It marks Revolve’s first acquisition since 2015, enabling the retailer to enter the high-end market and diversify its portfolio. This move could hedge against fast fashion fluctuations and appeal to affluent customers. Revolve’s digital expertise and influencer marketing could revitalize Alexandre Vauthier, expanding its global reach and introducing it to a younger audience while maintaining its luxury status. However, the integration will require careful management to balance Vauthier’s exclusivity with Revolve’s agile business model, potentially transforming Revolve into a diverse fashion powerhouse and offering sustainable growth for Alexandre Vauthier.

5. Spotify and Acne Studios Partner to Launch Innovative Artist Collaborations

Swedish fashion brand Acne Studios has partnered with music giant Spotify to create innovative collaborations between artists and fans. This exciting new venture will expand Acne Studios’ “Acne People” talent program, known for featuring high-profile collaborations with stars like Rosalía and Caroline Polachek. The partnership aims to curate a mix of global superstars and rising talents, showcasing them through unique collaborations tied to major events worldwide. By merging Acne Studios’ design expertise with Spotify’s extensive reach, the initiative promises to blend fashion, music, technology, and community, creating fresh platforms for artistic expression and fan engagement. The first of these collaborations will debut during the Fall/Winter 2024 season, marking the beginning of a series of groundbreaking fashion-meets-music experiences that will offer new ways for creativity to shine.

6. Bella Hadid Named the New Face of Saint Laurent

Bella Hadid has been announced as the new face of Saint Laurent, marking her first campaign with the iconic French luxury brand under creative director Anthony Vaccarello. The brand revealed the news on Instagram, showcasing imagery from the campaign shot by Gray Sorrenti. In the campaign, Hadid stuns in a sheer white dress with a lace collar, accessorized with a black Saint Laurent belt and a fur coat, capturing the label’s signature elegance and edge. This announcement follows her head-turning appearance in a transparent Saint Laurent dress at the Cannes Film Festival in May, which garnered significant attention and praise. Despite maintaining a relatively low profile recently, Hadid has been active with her perfume line, Orabella, and participating in Mustafa’s project “Gaza is Calling.” Her collaboration with Saint Laurent is set to further elevate the brand’s presence and appeal, reinforcing its status in the fashion world.

7. Australian Designer Christopher Esber Wins 2024 Andam Grand Prize

Sydney-based designer Christopher Esber has won the prestigious 2024 Andam Grand Prize, France’s most esteemed fashion award. Known for his sleek, summery eveningwear, Esber will receive a €300,000 grant to further develop his brand, along with a year of mentoring from Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello. The Andam Prize, backed by major fashion groups like LVMH and Kering and supported by France’s culture and economy ministries, highlights emerging designers and requires winners to maintain economic activity in France. This year’s other winners include Emeric Tchatchoua’s 3.Paradis, which received the Special Prize, Edmond Luu’s Pièce Unique, awarded the Pierre Bergé prize for creative fashion concepts, Amsterdam-based Maedam, which won the accessories prize, and Pauline Weinmann’s Alternative Innovation brand, which received the innovation award. The awards were presented at a party in the Palais Royal gardens on the closing evening of Paris Couture Week, with a jury chaired by Vaccarello. Previous winners of the Andam Prize include renowned designers like Martin Margiela, Jean Touitou, Marine Serre, and Y/Project.